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Hi, boys and girls! Which 870 for me?

Moderators: Scorpion8, ripjack13, John A., MikeD


.22LR
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:21 pm
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:48 pm
New member here, and not very gun-savvy. I have a 22 LR/WMR convertible revolver, and that's about it, aside from a CO2 pistol.

I'm a little guy (5'2") and an old fart (57), so 20 gauge appeals to me over 12. I go out in a TINY boat in the Everglades and other WMAs (Wildlife Management Areas) in South Florida, mostly for fishing and to get away from the wife, but I want something to put a hurt on the invasive Burmese Pythons which are (supposedly) taking over the Glades.

It's a real complicated issue, because the state and federal authorities can't get their act together on regulations to allow consistent hunting of the species year-round in different areas. Anyway...

I'm looking at the Express models because of low cost (and because I'm long-term unemployed). I'm thinking of a target range of maybe 10 to 20 yards to even SPOT the things--I doubt much further, because my eyes, even with glasses, are ALSO 57 years old. And these pythons will come in ALL sizes, so it's not like I'm just going to come across the 20-foot monsters. Those monsters have babies which need killing too.

So here are the relevant questions based on the info above:

1) Is there ANY logic to looking at the Youth model with the 21" barrel, because of my small size? This small size makes it infinitely more convenient and handy on a small boat.

2) Will 20 gauge be enough, and between the 26 and 28 barrels, is the 28 giving me faster velocity over the 26? And this is why the Youth's 21 would be ridiculous for me to even consider?

Obviously, I welcome any needed choke recommendations based on my requirements. This stuff is complicated to me, since you really don't what range you're going to find yourself at, or the size of the prey.

Thanks for your help!

--Ira

P.S. I have no interest in shooting furry or feathered things at this time, but we're coming into hurricane season and you never know.

.270 WIN
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:53 pm
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:23 pm
If the youth model fits your frame, go with it.

No fleas found in a 20! You'll find load from light weight target loads to heavy duck and turkey load. Were I there, I would start with some heavy 6s or 7s for shot, the fastest they would fly. But I HATE snakes!

I would leave the 21 bbl on it,unless it didn't shoot to point of aim. And i'd probably use the skeet 2 or imp cylinder choke.

Its a gun for snakes, don't make it hard on yourself.

Good luck, and kill several for me!

Sent from my LG-VS700 using Tapatalk 2
I would rather die on my feet, than live on my knees...

From George Washington

.22LR
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:21 pm
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:06 am
Thanks for the reply.

After checking some YouTube videos last night, I see that a 20 packs a ton of bunch. I had no idea. I thought a 20 was like WAY less than a 12, but from what I saw, it can do a ton of damage. I found a great video from a huge guy who even RECOMMENDED the youth model, because it's easier to carry.

I'm still confused on the chokes, though. I think it only comes with one, correct? And what's a Skeet 2 or Imp Cylinder choke? Are those generic expressions, or brand names? I read somewhere of a guy using an Extra Full Choke--is that the tightest pattern you can get?

Also, this guy showed the gun using bird shot, buck shot, and slugs. Is the bird shot/buck shot distinction made just based on the smaller pellet size of the bird shot? And finally, what choke should I use when I want to shoot slugs? This guy was shooting all 3 for the video without changing chokes.

Sorry if I sound like a total idiot, but I did research this a bit on Wikipedia and elsewhere. Unfortunately, it hasn't really sunk in yet. I have a lot to learn about everything, including the various shells available.
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:59 am
Welcome to the Remington Owners Forum IraRat !!

.270 WIN
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:53 pm
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:40 pm
Skeet 1 or 2 are recognized choke of a small range of constriction relative to the bore diameter of the gun. This true for all chokes.

Just ask for them in a quality gunshop, and they will know what you seek.

For buck vs birdshot, think use on deer or birds. Shooting slugs or buck, typically use the improved cyl for either and you will be fine.

Sent from my LG-VS700 using Tapatalk 2
I would rather die on my feet, than live on my knees...

From George Washington
User avatar
.410
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:54 pm
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 1:50 am
870shooter wrote:I'm still confused on the chokes, though. I think it only comes with one, correct? And what's a Skeet 2 or Imp Cylinder choke? Are those generic expressions, or brand names? I read somewhere of a guy using an Extra Full Choke--is that the tightest pattern you can get?

"Skeet", "Improved Cylinder", "Full" and so on are not manufacturer-specific names, but the actual constriction that those names refer to can vary with the manufacturer and the type of ammunition they're intended to be used with. But the progression from open to tight generally stays the same across manufacturers. From widest to tightest, the more-or-less "standard" constrictions are:

Cylinder (no constriction at all)
Skeet
Improved Cylinder
Modified
Full

And there are additional intermediates that are slightly tighter or more open than these. "Light Modified" would be slightly more open than "Modified", and "Improved Modified" would be slightly tighter than "Modified", for example (If you're into music, think "sharp" and "flat" versions of a note), and "Extra-Full" or "Super-Full" are tighter than "Full". It's not a very intuitive system, but if you can remember those five primary constrictions, that's a pretty good start.

870shooter wrote:Also, this guy showed the gun using bird shot, buck shot, and slugs. Is the bird shot/buck shot distinction made just based on the smaller pellet size of the bird shot?

Birdshot and buckshot are both round balls fired in multiples. Birdshot is small and fired in large numbers, buckshot is bigger and fired in small numbers, but they're both on a shot size scale that kind of blends together in the middle. If you want more information on birdshot vs. buckshot and details on how the shot sizes for each are organized, I've put together a couple videos that lay it all out.

American Shot Sizes part I: Birdshot
Image


American Shot Sizes part II: Buckshot
Image


870shooter wrote:And finally, what choke should I use when I want to shoot slugs? This guy was shooting all 3 for the video without changing chokes.

Depends on the slugs, but your standard lead Foster-style (or "rifled") slugs will work out of most chokes without serious problems. Cylinder, Improved Cylinder, and Modified will usually give you the best results. Some slugs will work through Full chokes, but this usually hurts accuracy, and can be tough on the gun. Shooting slugs through chokes tighter than Full is not a good idea. When in doubt, look over the ammo packaging for specific recommendations.

.22LR
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:21 pm
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:28 am
Can you believe that 8 months after my original post here, I finally bought my gun on Monday? (Poverty got in the way.)

Bought the Express Youth, and was extremely impressed with its solid feel. Rem is also offering a $25 rebate on most of their stuff (shotguns only?) through the end of the year.

I have to wait for the background check to clear (they told me to come Monday but it could be tomorrow), and I figure I'll pick up the Improved Cylinder choke. I was planning on getting the Remington brand, but does it make a difference?

Also, for my first time at the range, what do you recommend I use for slugs just for killing paper? (My local outdoor range doesn't allow the killing of beer cans, or even paper with pictures of bad guys on them!)

I feel like Ralphie!
User avatar
.410
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:54 pm
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 11:36 am
IraRat wrote:I have to wait for the background check to clear (they told me to come Monday but it could be tomorrow), and I figure I'll pick up the Improved Cylinder choke. I was planning on getting the Remington brand, but does it make a difference?

Remington chokes are good. As far as I know, the basic flush-fit chokes are all pretty much the same design; just a conical-style tube that tapers down to the desired constriction at one end. So as long as its from a good name, it's hard to go wrong. You can get higher-end extended chokes that are a little more advanced with gentler tapered sections or conical-parallel designs, and with them it can be good to do some more homework and be more selective. But the flush-fit tubes are pretty straightforward, and work fine. If you do your part behind the trigger and at the patterning board, and keep the tubes clean and lubed, they'll do the job.

IraRat wrote:Also, for my first time at the range, what do you recommend I use for slugs just for killing paper?

Just whatever you can find and afford, really. Plain lead Foster (or "rifled") slugs are probably going to be the way to go. I like the Remington Sluggers, but there are plenty of other options. Pass on higher-dollar slugs that are meant to be fired out of rifled barrels. You can shoot them out of a smoothbore barrel without any problems, but they won't be very accurate without rifling, so you'll just be burning the extra money you spent on them.

.22LR
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:21 pm
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 7:47 am
Thanks!

I'm on the iPad now and running out of the house, but when I get to work later, I'll post one or two more stupid questions. Stay tuned, and thanks for your help!

I want to be safe, and I'm even picking up snap caps to practice loading and correct UNLOADING of unspent rounds in a shotgun.

.22LR
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:21 pm
PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 6:47 pm
Well, I have to wait until Monday evening to pick it up. Darn background check! I'm sure BassPro gets the okays in early, but they give customers a specific date to return so people don't keep bugging them prior to that.

So here's the deal:

I'm going to get a few snap caps, because I want to learn how to safely load and unload. And yes, I know you don't unload just by pumping and ejecting. Bad for your firing pin, and potentially dangerous. Gonna pick these up:

http://www.basspro.com/Lyman-AZoom-Snap ... 20provided

Next:

I'm going to want to put a laser on this thing, not for HD, but because my eyes without glasses are horrible. I have 20/20 for close-up sight, down to the tiniest type(face) imaginable, down to an inch, but anything beyond 3 feet and the world is a blur to me. Yes, I know I have to learn to shoot with the iron sights, but that distance between 0 and 2 feet where I don't need glasses for anything (and actually have to take them off to see better), and the distance needed to sight something I want to actually hit, are totally incompatible. I need my glasses, but with the glasses on, those sights might as well be meatballs.

So can we assume I need a laser for medical reasons, and the worst medical reason of all--old age?

My main objective is hunting snakes, and shooting shot not slugs, so it's not like I need pinpoint accuracy. Ranges will vary greatly. (Plus, after a big python spots me and I climb up a tree from fright, that's gonna add 10 yards right there.) Since this will usually be bright daylight (Florida), I've read I need a green laser, not red. And I don't want to spend a fortune.

I see companies, including Remington, make adjustable lasers that mount in your tube. Granted, mine is 20 and I've only see them for 12 so far, and some (all?) lower your shell capacity. Many come with an extension wire and pad for easier on/off operation, something I'm NOT interested in.

Or do I put a receiver mount on instead, and put the laser there? (Easier and safer for on/off operation.) And is Remington's steel mount preferable to a plastic Weaver?

I've also seen a laser that gives you a "spread" to replicate a shot hit--one bright spot in the center, and a bunch of little dots around it. But the thing doesn't have stellar reviews, and is not the brightest possible. I guess this is because lasers can only be sold up to a certain power, and this model dissipates that beam and weakens output.

Your thoughts?

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