I've dry worked the pistol and fired about 50 rounds. The following is my experience.

Take down
I've spent some time fiddling with the take down procedure. What I've come up with is to pull some trigger which eases the force needed to retract the slide, watch the smaller hole on the right side while the larger, pass through hole is facing down. When the hole in the slide reveals the pin is spot on the pin will soon be on its way out. If not a bit of jiggling of either the slide or the entire weapon will get the pin moving. Once the pin has started through the left side wiggling the slide while the left side is facing down will result in the pin falling out.

Reassembly
Putting the weapon back together was frustrating until I learned that the barrel must be revealed as the slide is pulled back. If the end of the barrel is not showing the alignment holes will not be in position to pass the pin to the other side. You'll need to figure out your own hand placement for holding the slide back while the pin is started. I've taken to carefully balancing the pin in the left hand hole and when the barrel holes are aligned the pin can be eased in. Once the pin is partially in the left hole of the frame I can finish the insertion by working the slide. When the pin is fully home the slide will go to battery.

Slide/Firing Pin Retainer Relationship
On my weapon the alignment of the firing pin retainer and the end of the slide upon which the hammer rides are not as good as I'd like them to be. The slide sits several thousandths proud of the retainer. There is a slight interruption of the smoothness of slide travel due to this "bump". This is causing a small flat spot to grow on the hammer. I'll use diamonds to ease the transition of the slide end.

Connector Link-Sear/Hammer
The connector link was bearing on about half of the width of the connector where it contacted the hammer. I've carefully diamonded that area to make more contact but not changed the angle. Stacking has been eliminated; I think the end of the pull feels better. I'll be watching how the hammer and sear wear as time goes on.

MIM
The RM380's construction is predominately Metal Injection Molded (MIM).

Ammunition
Remington customer service emailed that the RM380 is not designed for +P ammunition.

dsiddens wrote:Connector Link-Sear/Hammer
The connector link was bearing on about half of the width of the connector where it contacted the hammer. I've carefully diamonded that area to make more contact but not changed the angle. Stacking has been eliminated; I think the end of the pull feels better. I'll be watching how the hammer and sear wear as time goes on.

Here's another thing I noticed that adventuresome users might want to look at. After two range sessions and about 120 rounds downrange I started noticing a shiny spot on each magazine - in the same place on both. Figuring this came from something in the fire control mechanism (as the spot was on the right side of the magazine) I removed the right grip panel to take a look. What I found was a burr (from the stamping process) on the connector link (the manual refers to this as #33 - sear trigger bar) that would rub against the magazine just about at the end of the trigger pull and it was giving a slightly "gritty" feel to the trigger pull. Since I had the grip already off I removed the connector and diamond stoned the burr. This is NOT the same place you stoned as I didn't touch the contact area between the connector and the hammer - mine didn't look too bad - I only did the other side which touches nothing (other than the magazine) normally.

It seems to have removed the grittiness in the trigger pull and this might well be the reason a few users have reported a gritty trigger and others haven't - it all depends on how much of a burr a particular connector has.

Yes to that polishing of part #33. I forgot to edit that in. Thank you for bringing it up.
Doug

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Had my RM380 to the range this past weekend. Just five more magazines of ball and one of hollow point, no problems. Really getting to like this little gun. I wanted the DAO trigger on a gun this small and I am not disappointed. Had the R51 and was having an occasional issue but sent it in for one of the R1 1911's. That gun convinced me that Remington could do some fine work so took another chance on the RM380....glad I did. Still want another R51 though....

Ran 100 rounds through the rm380 with no problem. Have been looking for advice on getting the locking pin back in after cleaning. Took me many tries to drop the pin back in after I lined up the hole. Is there some technique I am missing. I learned not to hold the barrel but even then it seems very difficult to put the pin back in after cleaning. Like the way the gun handled and found recoil to be mild. Trigger pull takes getting used to to make sure it returns before trying to fire again.