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BLACK POWDER LONG GUNS

Moderators: Scorpion8, ripjack13, John A.

PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 3:13 pm
This subforum is for the discussion of Black Powder Long Guns.

Please feel free to discuss all the different types and brands...
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 3:23 pm
For years I had been using a CVA Eclipse .50 cal. I took one deer with it a few years back. Last year i ditched the CVA when I found out they were having problems with that particular model. Apparently the breech plugs were blowing out due to poorly cut threads. I guess there was some type of recall but it had long since passed by the time I stumbled upon the info. I found this a little disconcerting so I bought new gun despite tha fact that I had been using it for years without any issues. I only paid $80 for it brand new when they first came out so no big loss. I was kind of wanting something a little easier to clean anyway.

My replacement was Traditions Buck Stalker. It's a break open .50 cal model. I took a deer with this one last year. it's a no frills gun but it has been pretty reliable and accurate.

I'm currently using Triple-Seven powder measured by weight (about 73grains), and a 250gr Barnes Expander MZ sitting on top of a Winchester 209 primer. The gun is capable of shooting up to 150gr eq of black powder but I find I get better results with it around 100gr eq. plus it doesn't beat the hell out of my shoulder.

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I need to paint my scope. I took this off of a stainless 10/22. It does the job nonetheless.

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Shots during my initial sight in with the new bullets. This was at 50 yards. I later fine tuned it a bit more and got it dialed in at 100. If I can find a good range I'd like to see what she can do out to 200 yards.

If I upgrade again it will be for something that is stainless. I love this gun but hunting in lots of wet climate weather it's hard to keep the surface rust from popping up here and there. They just don't blue them like they used to.
We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions.-Ronald Reagan
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 5:16 pm
Looks like a nice setup Mike !!
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 7:21 pm
Thanks. It definitely does the trick. Ill prob be using it instead of my xbow for the last day or our late doe season
We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions.-Ronald Reagan

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:12 pm
Thanks for making a discussion just me. But I have no clue about black powder shooting. I asked for this so that I could ask about the rifle I have, and how to get started. All I know at this point is that I bought a Remington 700ML. I have no accessories, don't know where to start, and am in desperate need of help. It's a 50 cal inline muzzleloader. After that, I'm lost. Any help?
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:17 pm
Moose I can help get you going.

I'm a little busy right now but I will post some advice when I can actually sit at a keyboard and not my phone.
We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions.-Ronald Reagan
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 2:03 pm
Mike will be along to help ya Moose...stay tuned !!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 2:24 pm
Moose 843 wrote:Thanks for making a discussion just me. But I have no clue about black powder shooting. I asked for this so that I could ask about the rifle I have, and how to get started. All I know at this point is that I bought a Remington 700ML. I have no accessories, don't know where to start, and am in desperate need of help. It's a 50 cal inline muzzleloader. After that, I'm lost. Any help?
Same here. I don't even own a black powder rifle, but could easily invest in one.

Is it hard to clean up after use?

What would be a good brand of rifle as a starter? (don't want to go cheap or overly expensive)

About how much money, in accessories, does one invest in getting started?
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Are we there yet?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:20 am
Moose, et al:


I'm no expert in black powder, but I will pass on a little of why I know and have done over the years:

I will not go into too much specifics of particular guns as I do not have much knowledge of different models. I'll post in installments as I get time. If anyone wants any more specific info or see's something they feel I am doing wrong feel free to chime in. We're hear to learn from each other.

My knowledge is primarily in .50 call guns using pelletized powder and 209 shotgun primers. I have recently tried using loose powder but am still learning on this this. Other ignition types (percussion cap, musket cap, etc are similar but have their own issues, if you have specific questions on these I can try to help)

Basics. The bare minimum I think you should have to get going is:
  • Powder
  • Powder Flask (Only if using loose Powder)
  • Powder Measure (only If using loose powder)
  • Projectile
  • Primers/Percussion Caps/etc.
  • Ramrod
  • Patches
  • Primer loading tool (gun specific, some require it)
  • Primer holder (again, some guns require it some do not)
  • Any other tool you specific gun requires buy I am unaware of

Additional things I think add a lot of convenience but are not truly necessary:
  • Bullet starter
  • Primer holder. I prefer the TC model that is used as a holder and capper in one. The design of the capper might not work with all guns but there are different types out there.
  • Speed loaders. These hold you powder, projectile and primer in one easy to load package. This can be as simple as a pill bottle or a store bought model specific for loose or pelletized powder. Some ever function as a bullet starter as well.
  • Cleaning Solvent. Hot soapy water is about as good as it gets but is a bit messy and does not remove plastic/lead fouling. Here you may want to get something based on the type of projectile you hare using. Personally I like the TC T-17 Cleaner and Solvent. Use the liquid, my buddy used the foaming version, both work well.
Last edited by MikeD on Mon Jan 05, 2015 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions.-Ronald Reagan
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:58 am
Cleaning the gun:

I will start rather than end here because if you do not start with a clean gun then you may have a non-functioning gun. Black powder guns tend to be much more picky about being clean, specifically in the breech and ignition area.

I try to break down the gun as much as I can (based on users manual). I remove the breach plug and soak it in solvent or hot soapy water. I will do the same with any other components as well.

I will let them soak while I clean the barrel.

From here on out I will just use the word solvent, which could mean hot soapy water or actual solvent, either is acceptable based on personal preference and need.

Using the ramrod and .50 cal jag I will run a soaked patch up and down the barrel, usually in a back and forth motion paying special attention to the breach area as you tend to get a buildup of crud there. I will do this from the breach end so I do not push all the crud into the breech plug threads. If you gun does not have a removable breach plug you will have to perform this from the muzzle end of the gun. I will continue this using a new patch each time until the patch comes out clean.

At this point I will use a toothbrush to clean the breech plug threads. I will insert the brush from the breech end and rotate it out as If I was unscrewing it from the gun. I will do this several times until there is mo more residue on the threads.

I will switch to running a dry path down the barrel until it comes out clean and dry. I will often use a dry patch over the end of a toothbrush to dry the breach plug threads as as well.

At this point I will run a path a VERY LIGHT amount of oil down the barrel. Just enough to coat and prevent rust. I may use a little more if the gun is going to be stored immediately after and I may not use any if I am going to us it for hunting immediately after.

If your gun does not have a removable breech plug or you have an old style musket another method of cleaning the barrel is to fill a bucket with hot soapy water. Remove the barrel from the gun and place the breech end in the bucket. Run the ramrod up and down from the muzzle end of the barrel, drawing the water in and out through the ignition hole until it comes out clean. This will not work with all guns, esp if you have a scope installed but it is how many guns were cleaned before the modern inline was created.

Now back to the other components. The residue on the other components you had soaking should now be softening up. Clean these with a toothbrush patch, etc. Make sure the primer pocket on the breech plug is clean and that you can see the little hole in the end when you hold it up to the light. If the blast hole is obstructed it will affect or completely hinder ignition. I like to use q-tips and toothpicks to get all the crud out of the hard to reach areas of the breech plug (and other components.

NOTE: do not enlarge the hole in the end of the breach plug.

Once all the parts are clean I will lightly oil any parts that do not come in contact with powder. I never oil the breech plug.

Reassembly:

When putting the breech plug back into the gun you need to put what they call Nipple Grease or Breech Plug grease on the threads. This will prevent the breach plug from sticking to the breech after shooting. Trust me it will be hard if not impossible;e to remove depending on how much you shoot and how long it sits. You do not need a lot, just enough to coat everything. Some will get pushed out when you re-install the breach plug, just wipe off any excess that gets pushed out. Over time you will be able to judge how much you need.

I won't go into much more detail here as each guns assembly is a little different.

Once everything is put back together I will put a light coat of oil over the outside of the gun to prevent rust and also oil the trigger/hammer assembly as needed.
We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions.-Ronald Reagan
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 3:57 pm
Covered that nicely Mike...thanks !!

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