RemingtonOwners.com • View topic - 870 Express rusting issue

.22LR

Posts: 16
Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2014 9:12 pm

Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:34 am

I have an 870 Express tactical and its having an issue with surface rust. I know some of the newer express models have this issue and want to take care of it. Im sure I could bring it to my local shop and have it coated, but is there a product you would recommend for do it yourself project? The rust is not bad, but id rather not see this happening on a brand new gun that is cleaned regularly and stored properly. I know there is plenty of coating products out there...but what is your preferred method? Thanks!

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.270 WIN

Posts: 302
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:31 am
Location: Williamsburg, Va.

Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 12:35 pm

In my opinion the standard factory rinse doesn't get all the bluing salts out of the rough surface. And then oil is not a solvent for bluing salts. I have solved a couple by giving the metal parts a good bath in hot soapy water, then rinsing, then drying, then coating it with RemOil and wiping it off. YRMV.
The new guns I have looked at recently actually have more of a true matte finish; smoother than previously.

What could have happened... did.

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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 1:59 pm

I would try Virginian's method first...then, if that didn't work:

Try lightly rubbing with 0000 steel wool with a touch of oil...wiping away the slurry often...then re-apply oil and rub again until desired effect is achieved...touch up with cold blue if required.

This is a real good alternative to the 0000 steel wool:

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/Works/

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Jaysonics Jaysonics's Profile .22LR Posts: 16 Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2014 9:12 pm	Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:00 am Thanks guys, will give that a try and see how it turns out
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Assault Assault's Profile .410 Posts: 79 Joined: Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:19 am	Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 11:03 pm I've used a toothbrush with hoppes solvent..... Then apply light coat of CLP (guns I store and don't use).... The few I use a good bit, I wipe down with remoil after each use... I run 2 dehumidifier in my gun safe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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.270 WIN

Posts: 260
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:13 pm
Location: Indiana

Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 5:54 pm

Assault wrote:I've used a toothbrush with hoppes solvent..... Then apply light coat of CLP (guns I store and don't use).... The few I use a good bit, I wipe down with remoil after each use... I run 2 dehumidifier in my gun safe

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do those dehumidifiers drain water off somewhere? Just curious, don't know much about them. :?:

USMC 83' - 87'
NRA Member
Indiana & Utah CCW

Are we there yet?

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.270 WIN

Posts: 302
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:31 am
Location: Williamsburg, Va.

Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 7:50 pm

The desiccant ones only absorb moisture, and need to be recharged - heated, driving off the moisture. Bluing salts also absorb moisture. The electric ones like a Goldenrod just raise the air temperature so you do not get any condensation on the guns. When my safe was in the garage 2 years in Ohio, I put a 40W bulb down low in the safe and no problems. The other 35 years when the safe has been inside the heated air conditioned part of the house I have done nothing.

What could have happened... did.

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.410

Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:19 am

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:14 pm

remingtontoter wrote:
Assault wrote:I've used a toothbrush with hoppes solvent..... Then apply light coat of CLP (guns I store and don't use).... The few I use a good bit, I wipe down with remoil after each use... I run 2 dehumidifier in my gun safe

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do those dehumidifiers drain water off somewhere? Just curious, don't know much about them.

One of them is in a canister, when it turns blue, I plug it in to a wall socket and it dries out. The other dehumidifier is an electrical bar. Bar heats up to cook off moisture, also maintains temp in safe

If its up high, it's coming to the ground

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Kokopelli Kokopelli's Profile Moderator Posts: 33 Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 8:02 pm Location: East Tennessee	Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 1:02 am Be sure and use a heater in a closed safe as well as a desiccant dehumidifier. Moisture will condense out of the air onto an object that is colder than the ambient air. So you want your guns to remain warmer than the ambient air. 870 Express finishes are somewhat infamous for surface rust. "Ain't no pockets on a shroud"
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.22LR

Posts: 16
Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2014 9:12 pm

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:12 pm

Virginian wrote:In my opinion the standard factory rinse doesn't get all the bluing salts out of the rough surface. And then oil is not a solvent for bluing salts. I have solved a couple by giving the metal parts a good bath in hot soapy water, then rinsing, then drying, then coating it with RemOil and wiping it off. YRMV.
The new guns I have looked at recently actually have more of a true matte finish; smoother than previously.

This definitely helped take care of the rusty look the gun had. Still interested in doing a coating whether a DIY job or getting it done by a shop. Going to take it to my local gun shop to see what they recommend. They are the ones who sold me the gun so Im sure they want to help their customers and their products.

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.270 WIN

Posts: 260
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:13 pm
Location: Indiana

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:35 pm

Jaysonics wrote:
Virginian wrote:In my opinion the standard factory rinse doesn't get all the bluing salts out of the rough surface. And then oil is not a solvent for bluing salts. I have solved a couple by giving the metal parts a good bath in hot soapy water, then rinsing, then drying, then coating it with RemOil and wiping it off. YRMV.
The new guns I have looked at recently actually have more of a true matte finish; smoother than previously.

This definitely helped take care of the rusty look the gun had. Still interested in doing a coating whether a DIY job or getting it done by a shop. Going to take it to my local gun shop to see what they recommend. They are the ones who sold me the gun so Im sure they want to help their customers and their products.

I know there are the usual companies out there, that offer coating kits. I know Dura does, I have seen the options on their website. They have some awesome camo jobs to choose from.

USMC 83' - 87'
NRA Member
Indiana & Utah CCW

Are we there yet?

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Virginian Virginian's Profile .270 WIN Posts: 302 Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:31 am Location: Williamsburg, Va.	Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 4:38 pm The only thing I have ever used was Rustoleum flat black back when I was doing a lot of salt water hunting. It worked. What could have happened... did.
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Mattgvegas Mattgvegas's Profile .22LR Posts: 19 Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2015 8:49 pm Location: Fabulous Las Vegas	Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 5:55 pm My 870 express seems to have the same issue. I thought it was just neglect of the previous owner. I can wipe the barrel with rem oil every week and the rust comes back. I'll give these tips a try until the entire gun gets a new paint job.
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Virginian Virginian's Profile .270 WIN Posts: 302 Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:31 am Location: Williamsburg, Va.	Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:37 pm Oil, Hoppes, naptha, lacquer thinner, none of them will dissolve any salts in the surface pores/irregularities. Nothing but water is a solvent for the salts. A little Dawn helps. What could have happened... did.
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Hickory Stick Hickory Stick's Profile .410 Posts: 31 Joined: Mon May 18, 2015 5:04 am Location: Middle Ga.	Posted: Sat May 23, 2015 2:14 am Well let us know their response.
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mauser9 mauser9's Profile 20g Posts: 609 Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2013 4:00 pm	Posted: Sat May 23, 2015 4:25 pm Did not know this was a problem on the 870 Express with rusting. Some say caused by not removing bluing salts? Is the matte finish more susceptical to rust than the regular high polish cold bluing?
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Virginian Virginian's Profile .270 WIN Posts: 302 Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:31 am Location: Williamsburg, Va.	Posted: Sat May 23, 2015 6:17 pm Yes, a rough finish will hold anything more than a smooth polished surface. Oil is NOT a solvent for salts. You can oil it forever, but until you wash the salts away the issues will persist. What could have happened... did.
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20g

Posts: 609
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2013 4:00 pm

Posted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:01 pm

Virginian wrote:Yes, a rough finish will hold anything more than a smooth polished surface. Oil is NOT a solvent for salts. You can oil it forever, but until you wash the salts away the issues will persist.

Thanks Virginian. Have heard of parkerized but believe this finish is different if I am correct. Am a bit of old school and recall matte finishes were not the norm in my day. Took the high polish bluing for granted all these years. Guess it is more expensive and time consuming for the manufacturers. Boy times have sure changed. With the price of good figured walnut I guess synthetic and polymer are here to stay.

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870 Express rusting issue

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