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I need help about picatinny rail for 40XS Tactical

PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 4:13 pm
by Petrus
Hi everyone:
I need help about what type of picatinny rail is needed, for a Remington 40XS Tactical. Is it the same as the one for a Remington 700 short action, say a 700P or SPS?
Greetings

Re: I need help about picatinny rail for 40XS Tactical

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2016 11:57 am
by SHOOTER13
Sorry...can't help with your question. Maybe another member here will know.

Bump to top...

Re: I need help about picatinny rail for 40XS Tactical

PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 4:25 am
by Petrus
Thank you anyways, and greetings.

Re: I need help about picatinny rail for 40XS Tactical

PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 4:53 am
by Hummer70
Unless something has changed the short actions hole locations in front and rear receiver rings are the same. The big changes come when you want to mount a scope and how far you plan on shooting.

First off let me tell you about the Army Sniper manual I saw for the M24 system at Ft. Benning that indicated rifle would be set to zero at 600 yards and shooter will hold under or over to achieve hits. That was a early manual and it may have changed but they knew as shooters the receiver mounted scopes have limitations.

For instance if you are going to 1000 yards you are going to need a scope mount with the rear end having like 20 - 30 minutes of elevation higher than the front. Reason being internal adjustment scopes don't have the elevation capability and when you start getting to the limits of the internal adjustments you are going to lose windage adjustment capability.

The 40XCs were originally set up for 100-600 yard shooting (NRA Highpower Competition) and most all scopes will get you that far and is fired with iron sights and a good target iron sight will get you to 1000 yards but internal adjustment scopes won't.

The best ring set up I have found is Burris Signature Zee Rings with the extra spacers.

Here is the way I try and set up.

1. run your scope all the way to the bottom or the top of it's adjustment and then count either down or up and find out how many clicks of elevation you have available. 4 clicks generally equal 1 minute of elevation.

2. Lets say you have 120 clicks of elevation so adjust your scope to the middle of the adjustments or 60 clicks from top or bottom of travel.

3. Do the same for windage and find the middle point.

4. Mount the scope and with the scope set at center of travel (elevation and wind) and shoot it at 100 yards. See where you hit and assuming you have a rifle with a straight bore you should be very close to the middle of the target at 100 yards. Don't be surprised if you are way off as a fair number of barrels are not straight internally. For instance I got a 7615 and mounted a one piece rail and could not sight it in at 100 yards. I looked down barrel and could see where the barrel took a dive towards 6:00 o'clock half way down the barrel. I had to send it back and they put on a new barrel for me.

5. OK lets say you have 120 clicks of elevation and your scope set to mechanical centers has you hitting dead center but don't hold your breath on this. If you do you only have 15 minutes of elevation left in your scope and that won't get you to 600 yards. On a 308 with a 200 yard zero you will come up about 16 clicks to get to 300 yards and 60-68 clicks to get to 600 yards depending on bullet weight.

From 600 to 800 yards you will come up another 80 clicks, 800 to 900 about 20 clicks and 900 to 1000 another 20 clicks so obviously you are going to run out of elevation.

The taper rail mounts are critical to getting to long range. Most of the ones you see are 20 minute rails and maybe more. If you have scope rings with spacers you can hopefully achieve a base zero (100 yards) near the bottom of the scope adjustment. If you have windage problems the spacers can be rotated to get you closer to mechanical zero and still get elevation.



6. The next problem you are likely to encounter is on many internal adjustment scopes they don't necessarily move when you click them until you tap the scope to get the internal parts to move.


As you can see you are limited by scope adjustment so you are going to need a mount that is tapered and rings that will allow even more elevation and your frustration level is likely to max out.