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Remington 1100 Autoloader Troubleshooting

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:11 pm
Any issues, concerns or problems you may have with your Remington 1100 autoloader; this is a thread for troubleshooting.

Copper BB
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:17 pm
Any issues, concerns or problems you may have with your Remington 1100 autoloader; this is a thread for troubleshooting. http://www.RemingtonOwners.com

Hello, I am new to the forum. Where are the trouble shooting threads? If I click the link above it just takes me back to the home page.
Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 5:26 pm
You can post up any and all questions right in this thread; are you having some issues with your Remington 1100 autoloader?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:15 pm
Yes, I have a 20 Gauge model and it does not cycle properly. It does clear the spent round but the incoming round gets hung. I am curious to the length of the plug as well. I had misplaced it years ago and put a dowel in its place. I recently came across a plug in my stuff and installed it thinking it may have been the problem but no change. Still wonder if it is the correct plug.
I pulled the thing apart last week and did an extensive cleaning on it and the O ring on the magazine is new. The gas ports are clear and should function as they are. I had shot this gun many years ago and it worked fine at the time. I used it again several years ago and had the cycling problems. I changed the oring at the time but did not get to shoot it agian until this years dove hunt and still had the same problem. I did the above cleanings etc but to no avail. I can't imagine what could have changed just sitting in a closet. I have had this gun since the early 80's but could not tell you its age before that as it was used when I received it.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 11:22 pm
I would start with another complete strip down, cleaning (including the gas ports on the barrel), lubing and replace the o-ring again (make sure its the correct one so it seals properly). Your problem sounds a lot like it has to do with the gas system and usually is the issue when it comes to autoloaders. It does not sound like it has anything to do with the plug but if you post up some pictures of the plug that you have I might be able to confirm that its the correct one. Keep us updated and I am sure others will chime in with their thoughts.

Copper BB
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 7:04 pm
Thanks for the reply. I have attached a photo of the plug as poor a quality as it is. I have how ever read the info on the plug, and I am sure it is the correct one as it says 1100 and 870, Remington 20LW#28.
It is green incolor and is 5 5/8 total length. The larger portune is 3/8 of an inch of the entire length. I will have to see about getting another Oring. Cabellas sells a large grab bag full but I would rather buy the correct one. Is this something that might be available at a hardware store and if so does anyone have a specific description for it? Thanks, I eill go through the shotgun again and see what I can find.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:21 pm
Welcome to the Remington Owners Forum BonesD !!
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:48 am
Thank you

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 12:36 pm
I have piulled the 20 guage down further than the last time.
I have checked the extractor I do not find any thing unusal. The rails in the reciever are smooth and without burrs.

I removed the action spring and follower. The follower is also made of steel and shows no defects.

The spring measures 14 1/2 inches in length not including the metal spring retainer part that goes at the butt end of the spring. This part did not come off by hand so I left it alone.. I found on another site that the spring should be 15 1/4 nches long and that anything under 14 inches should be replaced. It does not mention if this length is for a 20 or 12 gauge or if its a generic length. I need some advice on this please.

I did notice that the barrel guide button in the reciever is burred up a bit and I will take care of that. I wondered why it was so difficult to temove and install the barrel .

The o ring does seem to be a bit limp. I will replace it.

I watched 2 videos on disasembly and in both when the bolt was removed, the movable part in the bolt would swing down 90 degrees to the outer housing. Mine does not. It rotates down just exposing itself but is probably 70 degrees from what I see in the videos. Is this because my 1100 is so old and the mechanics have changed or is this a problem?? I don't see and thing preventing it from rotating. It looks as though it shoud swing out but doesn't.

The gas ports (2)are open but can anyone tell me what the proper diameter of these ports should be?
At this point I can only say that yes they are open.

Lastly some how or another I think is the Feed Latch, the long metal spingy bar that fits on the inside of the reciever fell out. How does it go back in. This is the part that has to be pushed into remove the bolt assembly.
It fits in a groove on the inside right of the reciever. It does look like two burrs or as though the metal rails toward the back is rolled up. About an inch apart. Don't know if they are supposed to be there or not. I tried installing it by sliding the part up in the barrel and backing it up but when it gets to the first of these deformations it stops. I have a suspicion that those burrs should not be there. Should this bar just fit easily into the groove with no sliding. I thought maybe the two burrs were ment to capture the feed latch in place.They are not sharp to the touch and are uniform looking.

Sorry this is so long

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:42 pm
BonesD wrote:I have piulled the 20 guage down further than the last time.
I have checked the extractor I do not find any thing unusal. The rails in the reciever are smooth and without burrs.

I removed the action spring and follower. The follower is also made of steel and shows no defects.

The spring measures 14 1/2 inches in length not including the metal spring retainer part that goes at the butt end of the spring. This part did not come off by hand so I left it alone.. I found on another site that the spring should be 15 1/4 nches long and that anything under 14 inches should be replaced. It does not mention if this length is for a 20 or 12 gauge or if its a generic length. I need some advice on this please.

I did notice that the barrel guide button in the reciever is burred up a bit and I will take care of that. I wondered why it was so difficult to temove and install the barrel .

The o ring does seem to be a bit limp. I will replace it.

I watched 2 videos on disasembly and in both when the bolt was removed, the movable part in the bolt would swing down 90 degrees to the outer housing. Mine does not. It rotates down just exposing itself but is probably 70 degrees from what I see in the videos. Is this because my 1100 is so old and the mechanics have changed or is this a problem?? I don't see and thing preventing it from rotating. It looks as though it shoud swing out but doesn't.

The gas ports (2)are open but can anyone tell me what the proper diameter of these ports should be?
At this point I can only say that yes they are open.

Lastly some how or another I think is the Feed Latch, the long metal spingy bar that fits on the inside of the reciever fell out. How does it go back in. This is the part that has to be pushed into remove the bolt assembly.
It fits in a groove on the inside right of the reciever. It does look like two burrs or as though the metal rails toward the back is rolled up. About an inch apart. Don't know if they are supposed to be there or not. I tried installing it by sliding the part up in the barrel and backing it up but when it gets to the first of these deformations it stops. I have a suspicion that those burrs should not be there. Should this bar just fit easily into the groove with no sliding. I thought maybe the two burrs were ment to capture the feed latch in place.They are not sharp to the touch and are uniform looking.

Sorry this is so long
those "burs" are supposed to be there, here is how you put it back together, place the feed latch in your receiver so the pin hole is lined up and place in the front pin, take a heavy punch and tap the latch till it sits flush with the feed latch cut in receiver, the detents should hold it in place until you put your trigger assembly back in place. this should make you good to go
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