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Remington 1100 Autoloader Troubleshooting

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:11 pm
Any issues, concerns or problems you may have with your Remington 1100 autoloader; this is a thread for troubleshooting.

.22LR
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:17 pm
Any issues, concerns or problems you may have with your Remington 1100 autoloader; this is a thread for troubleshooting. http://www.RemingtonOwners.com

Hello, I am new to the forum. Where are the trouble shooting threads? If I click the link above it just takes me back to the home page.
Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 5:26 pm
You can post up any and all questions right in this thread; are you having some issues with your Remington 1100 autoloader?

.22LR
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:15 pm
Yes, I have a 20 Gauge model and it does not cycle properly. It does clear the spent round but the incoming round gets hung. I am curious to the length of the plug as well. I had misplaced it years ago and put a dowel in its place. I recently came across a plug in my stuff and installed it thinking it may have been the problem but no change. Still wonder if it is the correct plug.
I pulled the thing apart last week and did an extensive cleaning on it and the O ring on the magazine is new. The gas ports are clear and should function as they are. I had shot this gun many years ago and it worked fine at the time. I used it again several years ago and had the cycling problems. I changed the oring at the time but did not get to shoot it agian until this years dove hunt and still had the same problem. I did the above cleanings etc but to no avail. I can't imagine what could have changed just sitting in a closet. I have had this gun since the early 80's but could not tell you its age before that as it was used when I received it.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 11:22 pm
I would start with another complete strip down, cleaning (including the gas ports on the barrel), lubing and replace the o-ring again (make sure its the correct one so it seals properly). Your problem sounds a lot like it has to do with the gas system and usually is the issue when it comes to autoloaders. It does not sound like it has anything to do with the plug but if you post up some pictures of the plug that you have I might be able to confirm that its the correct one. Keep us updated and I am sure others will chime in with their thoughts.

.22LR
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 7:04 pm
Thanks for the reply. I have attached a photo of the plug as poor a quality as it is. I have how ever read the info on the plug, and I am sure it is the correct one as it says 1100 and 870, Remington 20LW#28.
It is green incolor and is 5 5/8 total length. The larger portune is 3/8 of an inch of the entire length. I will have to see about getting another Oring. Cabellas sells a large grab bag full but I would rather buy the correct one. Is this something that might be available at a hardware store and if so does anyone have a specific description for it? Thanks, I eill go through the shotgun again and see what I can find.
AUT_4106.JPG
AUT_4106.JPG (32.79 KiB) Viewed 3885 times
PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:21 pm
Welcome to the Remington Owners Forum BonesD !!

.22LR
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:48 am
Thank you

.22LR
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 12:36 pm
I have piulled the 20 guage down further than the last time.
I have checked the extractor I do not find any thing unusal. The rails in the reciever are smooth and without burrs.

I removed the action spring and follower. The follower is also made of steel and shows no defects.

The spring measures 14 1/2 inches in length not including the metal spring retainer part that goes at the butt end of the spring. This part did not come off by hand so I left it alone.. I found on another site that the spring should be 15 1/4 nches long and that anything under 14 inches should be replaced. It does not mention if this length is for a 20 or 12 gauge or if its a generic length. I need some advice on this please.

I did notice that the barrel guide button in the reciever is burred up a bit and I will take care of that. I wondered why it was so difficult to temove and install the barrel .

The o ring does seem to be a bit limp. I will replace it.

I watched 2 videos on disasembly and in both when the bolt was removed, the movable part in the bolt would swing down 90 degrees to the outer housing. Mine does not. It rotates down just exposing itself but is probably 70 degrees from what I see in the videos. Is this because my 1100 is so old and the mechanics have changed or is this a problem?? I don't see and thing preventing it from rotating. It looks as though it shoud swing out but doesn't.

The gas ports (2)are open but can anyone tell me what the proper diameter of these ports should be?
At this point I can only say that yes they are open.

Lastly some how or another I think is the Feed Latch, the long metal spingy bar that fits on the inside of the reciever fell out. How does it go back in. This is the part that has to be pushed into remove the bolt assembly.
It fits in a groove on the inside right of the reciever. It does look like two burrs or as though the metal rails toward the back is rolled up. About an inch apart. Don't know if they are supposed to be there or not. I tried installing it by sliding the part up in the barrel and backing it up but when it gets to the first of these deformations it stops. I have a suspicion that those burrs should not be there. Should this bar just fit easily into the groove with no sliding. I thought maybe the two burrs were ment to capture the feed latch in place.They are not sharp to the touch and are uniform looking.

Sorry this is so long

.22LR
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:42 pm
BonesD wrote:I have piulled the 20 guage down further than the last time.
I have checked the extractor I do not find any thing unusal. The rails in the reciever are smooth and without burrs.

I removed the action spring and follower. The follower is also made of steel and shows no defects.

The spring measures 14 1/2 inches in length not including the metal spring retainer part that goes at the butt end of the spring. This part did not come off by hand so I left it alone.. I found on another site that the spring should be 15 1/4 nches long and that anything under 14 inches should be replaced. It does not mention if this length is for a 20 or 12 gauge or if its a generic length. I need some advice on this please.

I did notice that the barrel guide button in the reciever is burred up a bit and I will take care of that. I wondered why it was so difficult to temove and install the barrel .

The o ring does seem to be a bit limp. I will replace it.

I watched 2 videos on disasembly and in both when the bolt was removed, the movable part in the bolt would swing down 90 degrees to the outer housing. Mine does not. It rotates down just exposing itself but is probably 70 degrees from what I see in the videos. Is this because my 1100 is so old and the mechanics have changed or is this a problem?? I don't see and thing preventing it from rotating. It looks as though it shoud swing out but doesn't.

The gas ports (2)are open but can anyone tell me what the proper diameter of these ports should be?
At this point I can only say that yes they are open.

Lastly some how or another I think is the Feed Latch, the long metal spingy bar that fits on the inside of the reciever fell out. How does it go back in. This is the part that has to be pushed into remove the bolt assembly.
It fits in a groove on the inside right of the reciever. It does look like two burrs or as though the metal rails toward the back is rolled up. About an inch apart. Don't know if they are supposed to be there or not. I tried installing it by sliding the part up in the barrel and backing it up but when it gets to the first of these deformations it stops. I have a suspicion that those burrs should not be there. Should this bar just fit easily into the groove with no sliding. I thought maybe the two burrs were ment to capture the feed latch in place.They are not sharp to the touch and are uniform looking.

Sorry this is so long
those "burs" are supposed to be there, here is how you put it back together, place the feed latch in your receiver so the pin hole is lined up and place in the front pin, take a heavy punch and tap the latch till it sits flush with the feed latch cut in receiver, the detents should hold it in place until you put your trigger assembly back in place. this should make you good to go
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.270 WIN
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:13 am
The feed latch needs to be held in place for you gun to function properly. Normally it is staked in (this is the dents you see)
As stated you will have to tap it back in flush, brownells sells a staking tool that will allow you to restake it, but I have had excellent results using super glue.

Make certain the both gas ports are open by pushing a piece of .030 - .060 mig welding wire thru both, keep in mind that the holes angle backwards, but you need to visibly see the wire protrude into the barrel. I think a 1/16" (.0625) drill bit will also pass thru and clean out any crude buildup in each hole. I will check my notes when I get home to let you know the exact diameter of the holes, but two open holes should allow it enough gas to function all day long.

Next, lets talk ammo! What are you using?
If the heads are steel instead of brass and your chamber is or has been rough, pitted, rusted, ect... Then when the shell is fired this steel head will expand into these minuet imperfections, this extra friction can cause the issues you describe.
Polishing your chamber with some steel wool wrapped around a cleaning brush chucked up in a cordless drill will clean it right up. Run it in and out until the outside of the barrel feels hot:)
We have done so much for so long with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing!
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Copper BB
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 6:31 pm
I have an 1100 made in the '70s (?) and I wanted to know the date of manufacture. Any correlation to the serial number? If so, where can I find this info? I've seen info for barrels, but because they are interchangable the date need not be the shotgun's date.

Thanks.
In the words of The Beatles,
"When I hold you in my arms, and I feel my finger on your trigger.
I know nobody can do me no harm, because happiness is a warm gun, Momma.
Happiness is a warm gun, yes it is."
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.270 WIN
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:57 am
Call Remington and give them the serial number, they will tell you when it was born, however keep in mind they do make errors.

Back up what they tell you with this information;
DECODING REMINGTON SERIAL NUMBERS
Model 870 LETTER PREFIX
1950 TO APPROX 1968: NO SERIAL NUMBER PREFIX
1968 TO PRESENT: LETTERS USED (IN SEQUENCE)
S-68, T-74, V-78, W-84, X-90, A-91, B-94, C-97, D-01, AB-05

Model 870 LETTER SUFFIX (DESIGNATES GAUGE)
V 12 GA. (2 3/4”)
M 12 GA. MAGNUM (3”)
A 12 GA. “SUPER” MAGNUM (3 ½”)
W 16 GA. ( 2 ¾” )
X 20 GA. “HEAVY FRAME” (DISCONTINUED)
N 20 GA. “HEAVY FRAME MAGNUM” (DISCONTINUED)
K 20 GA. “LIGHT WEIGHT” (“LW”) (ALSO INCLUDES M/1100 “LT”)
U 20 GA. LW MAGNUM (ALSO INCLUDES M/1100 “LT”)
J 28 GA.
H .410 BORE (2 ½” OR 3”)

Model 1100 LETTER PREFIX
1963 TO APPROX. 1968: NO SERIAL NUMBER PREFIX
1968 TO PRESENT: LETTERS USED (IN SEQUENCE)
L-68, M-74, N-78, P-85, R-90


Model 1100 LETTER SUFFIX
SAME STRUCTURE AS THE Model 870 listed above

Model 1187 LETTER PREFIX
1987 TO PRESENT: “PC” 12 GA., 1999 “TL“ 20 GA.,
2000 “SM” SUPER MAG.

LETTER SUFFIX
NO LETTER SUFFIX ON THIS MODEL

Then look on the left side of the barrel near the receiver and look for a two letter date code stamp and follow this chart with the first letter being the month and the second being the year the barrel was made;
Month
B - Jan L - Feb A - Mar C - Apr K - May P - Jun
O - Jul W - Aug D - Sep E - Oct R - Nov X - Dec

Year
M - 1921 N - 1922 P - 1923 R - 1924 S - 1925
T - 1926 U - 1927 W - 1928 X - 1929 Y - 1930
Z - 1931 A - 1932 B - 1933 C - 1934 D - 1935
E - 1936 F - 1937 G - 1938 H - 1939 J - 1940
K - 1941 L - 1942 MM - 1943 NN - 1944 PP - 1945
RR - 1946 SS - 1947 TT - 1948 UU - 1949 WW - 1950
XX - 1951 YY - 1952 ZZ - 1953 A - 1954 B - 1955
C - 1956 D - 1957 E - 1958 F - 1959 G - 1960
H - 1961 J - 1962 K - 1963 L - 1964 M - 1965
N - 1966 P - 1967 R - 1968 S - 1969 T - 1970
U - 1971 W - 1972 X - 1973 Y - 1974 Z - 1975
I - 1976 O - 1977 Q - 1978 V - 1979 A - 1980
B - 1981 C - 1982 D - 1983 E - 1984 F - 1985
G - 1986 H - 1987 I - 1988 J - 1989 K - 1990
L - 1991 M - 1992 N - 1993 O - 1994 P - 1995
Q - 1996 R - 1997 S - 1998 T - 1999 (*) U - 2000 (*)
V - 2001 (*) W - 2002 X - 2003 Y - 2004 Z - 2005
A - 2006 B - 2007 C - 2008 D - 2009 E - 2010
F - 2011 G - 2012 H - 2013
We have done so much for so long with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing!
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Copper BB
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 4:39 am
I called today and my 1100 serial number M******V was a 12 gauge 2 3/4 made in 1975, which is what I expected.

Thanks.
In the words of The Beatles,
"When I hold you in my arms, and I feel my finger on your trigger.
I know nobody can do me no harm, because happiness is a warm gun, Momma.
Happiness is a warm gun, yes it is."

Copper BB
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:13 pm
PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:33 pm
I am new to this forum and I am having problems with my auto loading remington 1100 12g. the problem I am having is I can fire the gun and it will extract the the spent round but will not load the second round it gets cot by the carrier plate because the does not hang low enough. have any of you experienced this issue and or know how to fix this issue.
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.270 WIN
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 6:15 pm
What shells are you shooting?

And

Please describe the "hangs low enough" part in more detail as I am not sure what you are saying.
Pictures would help:)
We have done so much for so long with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing!

Copper BB
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:48 pm
Well the shells i have right now are federal target load 2 3/4, not sure off hand of the other types I have used but none of the types i have used have made a differents.
(The carrier stops the shell from loading) The carrier hangs up and jams the shell so the shell wont load. Sorry if I am not making sense I don't really know how to explain what is going on.
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.270 WIN
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:21 am
How old is the gun?
Have you ever completely cleaned it?
How much has it been fired?

I still am not certain about your description, but a good detailed cleaning would be the first thing I would advise. This includes completely striping the gun down, cleaning, and lubricating everything. This is also a good time to check for worn, damaged, loose parts...debris etc.
Clean the gas ports located in the barrel ring.
Clean the inside of the magazine tube, spring and follower.
remove the bolt, trigger mechanism and clean and lube all parts.
Make sure the O ring is not broken or badly damaged and that the two seals are installed correctly.
Lightly oil the outside of the mag tube and action sleeve, 1100's do not like to be dry.

Unless it is a mechanical failure, most all 1100 issues can be corrected with a good timely cleaning. They are awesome firearms that will go and go and go, but eventually they need to be cleaned in ways other than just wiping them down to keep everything in time. If you have never done this then I suggest finding a local gun smith that can help you.
We have done so much for so long with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing!

Copper BB
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 9:04 pm
I have cleaned the gun a few times and none of the times have fixed the issue tho I have not cleaned the trigger assembly. Here are a few pictures to maybe help illustrate the issue I am running in to.
http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/coder ... ry/?page=1
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.270 WIN
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 10:18 pm
its dirty.....pull the bolt handle out, remove the bolt, knock out the two trigger pins and remove the whole trigger group.......clean it all inside and out, lightly oil and reassemble, and you should be good to go.
We have done so much for so long with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing!

Copper BB
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:13 pm
PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 10:40 pm
I have pulled it all out and oiled them and actually I just put them back together for the pictures and when I put it back together and was examining it some more I am starting to thinking it might be the the feed latch might be bad.
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.270 WIN
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:25 am
you may be onto something....they can get bent, break, or come unstaked causing feed issues.
We have done so much for so long with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing!

Copper BB
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Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:50 pm
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:54 pm
Hello everybody,

Glad I found this place. My uncle is usually my source of knowledge, but it helps to have other outlets.

I recently discovered my action bar to be broken after a jam on the skeet field last week. My theory is the break was due to my loose stock causing abnormal operating conditions, but regardless I have a question.

Will the "new style" action bar fit my "old style" 1100?

I have purchased one from Brownells and after a side-by-side, it is definitely the new style with no ball pinned on the carrier.

Any help is greatly appreciated,

Thanks
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.270 WIN
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 6:52 am
IDK, I have never had to replace one.
Did you give it a try?
We have done so much for so long with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing!

Copper BB
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Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:50 pm
PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:51 pm
Hello,

I am positive that it will fit, but there are distinct differences that I don't think will allow correct operation. I'm going to have to find an old style bar, but thankfully brownell's offers no-questions asked returns!

Thanks
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