I had a post going in the help section but have had no hits latley so I am reposting my last entry here.
The gun ejects well but jams picking up the next round. Below are some things I have discovered and some questions.

I have piulled the 20 guage down further than the last time.
I have checked the extractor I do not find any thing unusal. The rails in the reciever are smooth and without burrs.

I removed the action spring and follower. The follower is also made of steel and shows no defects.

The spring measures 14 1/2 inches in length not including the metal spring retainer part that goes at the butt end of the spring. This part did not come off by hand so I left it alone.. I found on another site that the spring should be 15 1/4 nches long and that anything under 14 inches should be replaced. It does not mention if this length is for a 20 or 12 gauge or if its a generic length. I need some advice on this please.

I did notice that the barrel guide button in the reciever is burred up a bit and I will take care of that. I wondered why it was so difficult to temove and install the barrel .

The o ring does seem to be a bit limp. I will replace it.

I watched 2 videos on disasembly and in both when the bolt was removed, the movable part in the bolt would swing down 90 degrees to the outer housing. Mine does not. It rotates down just exposing itself but is probably 70 degrees from what I see in the videos. Is this because my 1100 is so old and the mechanics have changed or is this a problem?? I don't see and thing preventing it from rotating. It looks as though it shoud swing out but doesn't.

The gas ports (2)are open but can anyone tell me what the proper diameter of these ports should be?
At this point I can only say that yes they are open.

Lastly some how or another I think is the Feed Latch, the long metal sping bar that fits on the inside of the reciever fell out. How does it go back in. This is the part that has to be pushed into remove the bolt assembly.
It fits in a groove on the inside right of the reciever. It does look like two burrs or as though the metal rails toward the back is rolled up. About an inch apart. Don't know if they are supposed to be there or not. I tried installing it by sliding the part up in the barrel and backing it up but when it gets to the first of these deformations it stops. It will not go into the groove where the burrs are. Possibly with force but that seems contrary . Should this bar just fit easily into the groove with no sliding. I thought maybe the two burrs were ment to capture the feed latch in place.They are not sharp to the touch and are uniform looking.

Sorry this is so long

Thanks

The two stamp marks are from the factory staking tool. The feed latch is a piece of spring steel that is held in place by a process called staking. Sometimes when you hammer out the trigger pins on a older gun the latch will come out aswell. If you are lucky with some pressure you can push the latch back in place re install the trigger assembly and pins. Check out brownells for repair parts and repair tips.

It's 4 years later and same problem...

Anyway, turns out the Interceptor Latch retainer was missing. Replaced it and finally got to shoot it a few months ago. It cycled well a few rounds then back to jamming

Took it apart today and the retainer is gone again. Besides possible poor installation on my part is there something that could be causing the clip to be jumping the groove

Thanks

The interceptor latch retainer didn't show up in the schematic? Did you buy the shotgun new or used?
Either way I am glad you found your problem, did you just not shoot your shotgun?

Remington sells a thicker retainer to compensate for wear, but I have only ever seen two where this was really needed.

F15398 1100 INTERCEPTOR LATCH RETAINER .025 $4.12

F202130 1100 INTERCEPTOR LATCH RET. (0.0275) $4.12

Make sure you install it with the flat side and sharp edge to the hole to the inside of the receiver.

The feed latch is held in place by the trigger group and the pins. The staking is just for ease of reassembly. I Superglued one six years ago as a temporary fix, and now I don't remember which one it was. I will never stake another one, and I have the special staking tool.

Also be careful letting a "gunsmith" do it. I have seen a bunch of receivers buggered up from this.

Thanks for the information.

I ordered a new interceptor latch, fee latch, clip, action and magazine springs, piston, seal etc. mostly because some showed wear, were easy to replace, and inexpensive. I got it all together and without having a chance to fie it yet do not know the results. Cycling it with the bolt it feels very crisp and functions well. It is however chewing up the brass bottom rim of the shell.

Any clue to this would be appreciated

I did buy one of the staking tools and it seems to have done a good job. They may as well leave the depth setting bolt out of the tool as it is poorly designed and leads to mis alignment of the staking tool.
If I find that the new intercept latch retainer falls off again I will order the three pack of different thicknesses. Since I replaced the latch and the retainer the only thing left that could have wear is the mounting post itself. The clip snapped cleanly into place so I know it is well seated.

Thank you

Finally had a chance to shoot the 1100. Initially I grabbed some loose shells out of my ammo can, Remington ShurShot Hvy Dove load 2 1Super X /2 - 1-8's Bang Bang Bang, perfect
Open a box of Winchester 2 3/4-7/8-7 1/2's, load up and bang click. a first round is still in the breech, guns has completely cycled and trigger cocked and pulled. No jamming. Repeat repeat repeat. Switch back to the Remington shells, bang bang bang.
Both are short brass, diameter of the rims are Winchester .760 and Remington .757, diameter of upper brass, Winchester .003 smaller, Height of brass, Remington .352 and Winchester .338.
Remington powder weight 2 1/2 drams Winchester unknown.
Any guesses. Extractor? It seems to sharm and free of burs. AI lubes the bolt assembly and will try again. Meanwhile any answers.!
Thank you

Winchester Universals are notorious for sticking in chambers. All my 1100s cycle them, but they rip about 60% of the shell bases doing it. I have seem them drag just enough in some guns to do exactly as you describe. Try some of the cheap Federals. Sounds to me like the gun is fixed.

Thanks for the help. Glad to know I have finally gotten ahead of this thing.. I hate it when machines are winning!

I can relate. I spent my life as an industrial troubleshooter, figuring out what was wrong, and fixing it on about every type of mechanical device you can imagine.

The challenge! Plus im cheap!
Satisfaction in fixing stuff is hard to beat. My neighbor brought me a wood chipper to fix today. Something new and i get to buy parts with their money. Great deal.